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Tile Roof Replacement & Design

Because everyone’s home and needs are different, build the roof system that is right for you, customized with exclusive features to fit your home for enhanced performance.

Process


Tile Roofs offer beauty and protection against harsh elements. Eastman Roofing and Waterproofing, Inc. has designed a complete system with "code-plus" options that outperform other specifications, utilizing the best and newest technologies with proven roofing practices. The complete "system" components work together to form long-lasting, worry-free security.

Steps

1. Tear off and haul away the roof system, including plumber’s flashings and vents. Remove or hammer nails flush with sheeting/roof deck.
2. Inspect entire roof area for dry rot damage in roof deck and replace with new.
3. Inspect entire edge perimeter for dry rot in fascia boards and barge rafters and replace with new.
4. (a)Solid Sheeting 1) Reanchor any roof deck nails that have popped up; 2) Reanchor per American Plywood Association specifications for shear strength; 3) Reanchor per American Plywood Association specification for shear strength with ring shank nails in high wind areas (Eastman Roofing & Waterproofing recommends following the American Plywood Association guidelines. If you are in a windy area, we recommend ring shank nails). 

*Options to Decide
4. (b)Space Sheeting Install OSB, OSB with Radiant Barrier or CDX plywood over existing space sheeting, or existing solid sheeting. 1) Install 4’ x 8’ sheets as a backing only for the new roof; 2) Install 4’ x 8’ sheets per American Plywood Association specifications for ‘shear’; 3) Install 4’ x 8’ sheets per American Plywood Association specifications for shear with ring shank nails, ‘high wind areas’. 

*Options to Decide
5. Install Roofer’s Select underlayment to entire roof area, WinterGuard self-adhered modified rubber leak barrier to valleys, roof penetrations, and low slope areas. 

*Options to Decide
6. Install new modified rubber flat roof membrane at low slope and tie into tile roof above.
7. Install flashings in underlayment to double flash roof penetrations.
8. Install new VELUX self-flashed, all-in-one, leak proof tempered glass skylight(s) over existing opening(s), where applicable, fastened and sealed.
9. Install new valley metal with hem and fasten where applicable.
10. Install eave riser or bird stop at eave edge.
11. Install new plumber’s flashings over plumbing stacks and new vents over exhaust areas; weave into tile roof.
12. Paint all plumber’s flashings and vents to match tile color, where applicable.
13. Install new electric powered attic ventilator with thermostat control for proper attic ventilation, fastened and sealed, where applicable.
14. Install batts at proper spacing for tile and batt extensions at valleys.
15. Install tile to the entire roof area, fastened with copper nails.
16. Clean up and remove all debris. Use magnet to remove fasteners from lawn. 
17. 10 Year warranty on all work performed by Eastman Roofing & Waterproofing.
18. Guarantee on tile underlayment from manufacturer specs, 50 years.   
19. Fifty year warranty on tile from the manufacturer.
  • Deck Materials
  • Deck Fastening
  • Deck Protection
  • Existing Skylights
  • Wall Flashing
  • Tile Ventilation

Deck Materials


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Price
Minimum Code
Code Plus
Highest Wind Resistance

The roof deck is the structural surface over which the roofing materials are applied. The roof deck should be a smooth, solid surface which will permit the shingles to be securely fastened. The roof deck must be at least 3/8" thick plywood, or 7/16" thick non veneer, or nominal 1" thick wood deck not more than 6" wide. If you apply a shingle roof over a deck surface that is unacceptable to the manufacturer and damage occurs as a result, the manufacturer warranty may not be honored.

Deck Material

Solid Sheeting Space Sheeting
Solid Sheeting Space Sheeting

If you have a solid roof deck that is plywood, installed properly, it is ready for the new roof. If you have boards (1 x 6, 1 x 8, 1 x 10, 1 x 12), the manufacturer’s specification is 1/8” maximum between boards. Some cities allow up to 1” maximum between boards. Usually the boards are not ‘dry’ when they were installed. When the moisture dries out of the wood, the wood shrinks. New OSB or plywood can be installed on top of the existing solid sheeting. Space sheeting is usually installed for a wood shingle, shake, and some tile roofs. Space or skip sheeting is 50% coverage of the rafters, the plane of the roof/board, space, board, space. A composition asphalt shingle roof has to have a solid deck. Therefore, the space between the boards has to be filled in or covered over with Oriented Strand Board (OSB) or plywood.

"Oriented Strand Board"Oriented Strand Board (OSB) is an engineered wood product formed by layering strands of wood in specific orientations, compressed and bonded together. It is more uniform and cheaper than plywood.

APA OSB Product Data

"Oriented Strand Board with Radiant Barrier"OSB with ‘Radiant Barrier’ reflects up to 97% of the sun’s radiant heat and keeps it from being absorbed into the attic of your home. An aluminum foil/craft paper laminate is attached to the bottom side of the OSB.

TechShield PDF
APA Products Radiant Barrier Product Data

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"CDX Plywood"CDX plywood: Sheets of veneer with each layer being glued the opposite grain to the one below it. This grade of plywood is used for roof sheeting.

APA Products Plywood Product Data

Deck Fastening


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Price
Minimum Code
Code Plus
Wind Resistance

Fastening the deck on the roof is required by state and city codes as well as manufacturing requirements such as from the American Plywood Association.

Deck Fastening

Fastening the deck on the roof is required by state and city codes as well as manufacturing requirements such as from the American Plywood Association.

OSB or plywood is applied:
"Protruding nail heads"a) Inspect the entire roof deck before installing new shingles. Re-nail protruding roof nails and clean the roof deck to allow for a smooth surface for the installation of the new shingles.  If existing nails are not flush with the roof deck, it can puncture the roof above.
"Refasten the decking"b) strictly for backing with the edge of the plywood placed anywhere on top of the existing sheeting and fastened to the existing sheeting;
"Refasten the decking"c) nailed directly over rafters below the existing sheeting;
d) nailed directly over rafters below existing sheeting, nailed per American Plywood Association guidelines to give the roof structure sheer strength. This is an added plus for earthquake reinforcement.
Eastman Roofing & Waterproofing recommends following the American Plywood Association guidelines. If you are in a windy area, we recommend ring shank nails.

Deck Protection


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Price
Minimum Code
Code Plus

Tile Deck Protection

Like an iceberg, a roof’s most important features are the ones you can’t see. By installing a fully-adhered underlayment directly to the roof’s deck you provide a storm resistant secondary water barrier against leaks and storm damage. A tile roof’s underlayment is the actual water barrier. The reason why tile roofs only last 15-25 years is because little care is taken to ensure a quality underlayment is applied.

layfastSBS TU 35: A superior and competitively priced alternative to traditional 30 lb organic felt.  The addition of SBS rubber to asphalt gives Layfast an electrometric property that is not available in common felt. Layfast SBS contains a higher percentage of asphalt for increased waterproofing.  Its inorganic fiberglass reinforcement eliminates the rot and deterioration associated with saturated felt.

Layfast SBS is available in 35 lbs/square.  It can be used in lieu of 30 # felt as an underlayment under shingle, tile, and metal roofs.

Layfast SBS is ICC (formerly ICBO) approved and complies with ASTM D226 standards, which most tile, shingle, and metal manufacturers require.

"rolls of layfastSBS TU43 underlayment" Layfastsbs TU 43: A superior and competitively priced alternative to traditional 30 lb organic felt.  The addition of SBS rubber to asphalt gives Layfast an electrometric property that is not available in common felt.  Layfast SBS contains a higher percentage of asphalt for increased waterproofing.  Its inorganic fiberglass reinforcement eliminates the rot and deterioration associated with saturated felt.

Layfast SBS is available in 43 lbs/square.  It can be used in lieu of 30# felt as an underlayment under shingle, tile, and metal roofs.

Layfast SBS is ICC (formerly ICBO) approved and complies with ASTM D226 standards, which most tile, shingle, and metal manufacturers require.


"Metal Layment"Metal Layment:This underlayment can be used for shingle, metal, slate, and mechanically-fastened tile roofs.  It is waterproof and will not rip and seals around nails driven through it.

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"WinterGuard"WinterGuard: A composite of asphalt polymers formed into a rolled sheet that is sticky. It can stretch and seal around nails driven through it. It meets ASTM D 1970 testing. It is a key component to CertainTeed’s “Integrity Roof System”. It is installed at valleys, penetrations, low slope area or the entire roof deck.

 

Existing Skylights

https://www.eastmanroofing.com/help/existing-skylights/

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Price
10 Year Warranty
20 Year Warranty
Energy Star
Tax Credit
Lifetime Warranty

Existing Skylights

When quality skylights are installed correctly they will outlast the rest of your roof, save money on energy bills, prevent heat from entering, make the inside of your building more enjoyable and enhance value.

WHY SHOULD I REPLACE MY EXISTING SKYLIGHT?

  1. "Broken Skylight"The skylight (not the roof) has leaked in the past.
  2.   The skylight is old.  Some skylights have rubber gaskets that make them waterproof.  The gaskets denigrate over time and leak.
  3. The skylight lens has cracks in it or is broken.
  4. The lens has minute cracking in it that shows the plastic has broken down and is severely damaged.
  5. The operable unit is not working.
  6. The wrong type of skylight was installed.
  7. The moisture barrier has broken down and condensation is in between the top and bottom lens.

J.C. Barry Manufacturing/Skylights
24×24 Operable unit, clear double dome mill frame
24×24 Operable unit, white or obscure glass, bronze frame
24×48 bronze tint dome, bronze frame
24×48 Self Flashing unit, clear dome mill frame
24×48 White dome mill frame
Bronze frame dual pane Skylight
Divided ridge unit (unglazed)
Octagon unit

Wall Flashing

https://www.eastmanroofing.com/help/wall-flashing/

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Price
Minimum Code
Enhanced Value & Protection
Best Value

Wall Flashing

When properly installed, metal flashings can help accommodate roof, chimney, wall, or structural movements due to settling, expansion, and contraction.  Roof flashing works like shingles.  It overlaps and sheds water.  Flashing is always constructed in a system to work with the effect of gravity.

Reuse Existing Flashings: If the same type of roof is being installed, the existing flashings can be reused if they are in ‘like-new’ condition. If the existing flashings are not correct for the new (different type of) roof, the flashings have to be changed. If they are rusted or damaged, one of the following choices has to be made:

New Exterior Flashings: The new flashing for the walls, cricket, hog valleys and valleys is on the outside of the siding, sealed with elastomerics and polyester fabric, or the use of PVC as a counterflashing with a termination bar or the wall can be notched to fit a metal counterflashing. This can work well if the area is semi-protected and is acceptable to the city where the work is being done.

New Concealed Flashings: In most cases this is the best method, and accepted by all cities.
1. Cut and remove existing siding material from wall.
2. Remove existing flashings, if needed, to allow for installation of new flashings.
3. Install new flashings and fasten.
4. Install new siding material or repair siding where applicable (owner to ‘touch up’ or paint siding).
"Types of Flashing"

 

Tile Ventilation


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Price
Energy Savings
Tax Credit
Go Green

Tile Ventilation

All insulated attic spaces shall be ventilated with openings to the exterior of not less than 1 sq. ft. of ventilation for every 150 sq. ft. of attic floor space. This must be balanced equally between the eave and the ridge of your home. This is the current code. Please check out the link why you need ventilation below.

Eyebrow or O’Hagin vents: These types of vents are the most common ones used in our area. They work through thermal buoyancy: warm air rises. They are not as efficient as Ridge Vent or an attic fan. It takes a lot of these vents to meet code and the manufacturer’s ventilation requirements.

Electric Attic Fan:  Air Vent Model PC15 has a ten year warranty for the fan motor.
 Electric-powered attic vents use a thermostat to fight heat inside the attic.

Featuring a low-profile dome, the power attic vent is unobtrusive when installed on the roof face slanting away from the front of your home.

Roof-mount power attic ventilators are available in several CFM capacities and dome colors that blend with the color of your roof.

Solar Powered Vent: Go green by upgrading to Solar Powered attic fans. A solution to provide energy savings, wind resistance and tax credit, this may be a viable option for you depending upon ventilation calculations and your attic configuration.

It is estimated that 90% of homes in North America have inadequate attic ventilation. Why? The code and manufacturers have changed their minimum requirements for attic ventilation. Attic ventilation can impact the longevity of the entire home!

In the summer, an improperly ventilated attic can cause heat to build in excess of 160 degrees. This superheated air eventually penetrates the ceiling insulation into the living area below.

Other Attic Vents:  Air Vent makes many different types of attic vents.

Damage that can result includes:

  • Premature damage to the underlayment
  • Wood framing warping, cracking or breaking down
  • Damage to siding, exterior or to exterior siding, interior paint, and wallpaper
  • Damage to insulation
  • Higher energy costs to heat and cool the home

 

A properly ventilated attic can help reduce the load on your air conditioner by moving superheated air out of your attic before it builds up and causes damage.

In the winter, various household appliances, bathtubs, showers, and cooking vapors can contribute to excess moisture build-up called vapor drive. Improperly ventilated attics will allow this moisture to collect and cling to the underside of the roof deck. There, it will condense and fall, soaking the attic insulation, causing it to compress and clog, reducing its efficiency.

Additional Structural damage can include:

  • Roof deck warping and rotting the wood frame
  • mildew growth

Proper Attic Ventilation: Proper attic ventilation systems allow a continuous flow of outside air through the attic (see illustration at right), protecting the efficiency of the insulation and helping to lower temperatures in the living space.

It consists of a balance between air intake (at your eaves or soffits) and air exhaust (at or near your roof ridge).

The current code requires a minimum of at least one square foot of attic ventilation (both intake and exhaust) for every 150 square feet of attic space. Shingle manufacturers require proper ventilation or they will not warranty their shingles or give a very poor warranty because they know the shingles can superheat and will not last their intended life.

For example, if your attic is 900 square feet, you need a total of 6 square feet of ventilation. This amount is generally divided equally between intake and exhaust ventilation (i.e. 3 feet of each), to insure proper air flow through the attic.
  • Tile
  • Tile Attachment
  • Hip & Ridge

Tile


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Price
Minimum Code
Material Warranty

Tile

Boral, makers of MonierLifetile and U.S. Tile, offers industries most dynamic portfolio of clay and concrete roof tiles designed for sustainability, beauty, durability and value.  We also work with Eagle Tile, Auburn Tile, Redland Clay Tile, MCA Tile, Ludowici Clay Tile, Deleo Clay Tile, and Maxi Tile.

Tile Attachment


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Price
Minimum Code
Code Plus
Direct Deck Fastening
Wind Resistance

Note: All light weight tiles (LW) must be anchored to meet code and manufacturers requirements. Standard weight (SW) concrete tile with "batts" must be anchored at 6/12 pitch or more. Clay tiles must be anchored.

Tile Attachment

If all the details in the tile roof are done correctly, the tile sheds the water off the roof.  If there is a defect, debris, wind, or damage, water can get under the tile and the underlayment must keep the water out  A leak can result from the fasteners that hold the tile on the building that go through the underlayment and roof deck.  That is why we recommend self-adhering underlayment.  (See Deck Protection.).
BATTS ONLY:  1×2 Redwood batts are anchored directly to the underlayment and roof deck.  This form of attachment when done correctly is allowed in our area for standard concrete tile below 6/12 pitch.  All other types of tile must be anchored.  The advantages – faster installation, equals less labor cost, and easier to repair a damaged/broken tile.  The disadvantages – none in our area.  However, in high wind areas adhesive and attachment is necessary to prevent wind damage.
HOT DIPPED GALVANIZED NAILS:  If the galvanized nails are “electro galvanized”, the zinc coating is too thin to prevent the fastener from deteriorating too quickly.  If the galvanized nails are “hot dipped”, the zinc coating will last a long time before the fastener deteriorates.
COPPER NAILS: Copper nails last longer than galvanized nails. We recommend them for long life and when the roof is near the coast. They are more expensive than galvanized nails. If the tile is attached with copper wire (like Cap and Pan Tiles), we recommend copper nails.
ZINC SCREWS:  Some tiles (like CedarLite) are recommended to be fastened with screws.  The screws grip the roof deck and do not back out.
Note:  All lightweight tiles (LW) must be anchored to meet code and manufacturer's requirements.  Standard weight  (SW) concrete tile with “batts” must be anchored at 6/12 pitch or more.  Clay tiles must be anchored.

 You Chose the Best Roof – Now Who’s Going to Install it?

Tile Roofing Institute Installer Certification Program

Several thousand companies throughout North America engage in the manufacturing and/or installation of tile roofing systems—the best roof you can put on your home. Their backgrounds represent a wide range of technical, business and marketing skills. The TRI Installer Certification Program imparts the requisite knowledge, experience and industry guidelines required to build tile roofing systems.

Success as a tile roofing installer requires a thorough understanding of the product and the proper installation practices and procedures. The TRI Installer Certification Program was created to help installers achieve these goals.

What is TRI Certification?

The Tile Roofing Institute (TRI) Installer Certification Program imparts the requisite knowledge and industry standards to roofing contractors who install concrete and clay tile roofs.

Launched in 2006, the certification program requires an extensive 2 day seminar and evaluation designed to enhance the knowledge of individuals involved in the construction and installation of tile roofing systems.

Lessons are taught by TRI Certified instructors who have attended TRI training and have years of experience in the tile roofing industry.

What Do Certified Roofing Installers Learn in the TRI Program?

  • Materials Specifications
  • Roof Preparation
  • Tile Installation
  • Management of Special Conditions

Why Choose a TRI Certified Installer?

They Are Professionals
TRI-certified roofing tile installers are industry professionals who are up-to-date on roofing standards, practices, and advances in the installation of concrete and clay tile.

Value You Can Count On
When you hire trained installers, you hire skilled craftsmen who provide value for your home-building or home improvement dollar. Certified installers are committed to their craft and are more likely to invest in their own continuing education.

Confidence in Your Investment
You’re investing in a low-maintenance, long-lasting roof. Certified installers know how to get the job done right the first time—and on time. Boost your confidence in a job well done by hiring a roofing contractor with TRI-certified installers.

Proven Knowledge
As part of the two-day program TRI certified installers are given access to multiple reference manuals and guides that enhance their training. Certified installers must also pass a 50-question exam to obtain their 2-year certification. Certification equals knowledge.

TRI is the Technical Resource for Tile Roofing
TRI sets the installation guidelines for the industry and works with other regional roofing associations to ensure that standards are followed nationwide.

Industry Support
TRI member companies have access to technical support and the latest news from the roofing industry through the “Members Only” area of the TRI Web site.

http://www.tileroofing.org/

Hip & Ridge


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Price
Minimum Code
Code Plus
Long Lasting
Wind Resistance

Tile Hip & Ridge

Hip and Ridge are the most vulnerable areas in a tile roof as they susceptible to blow off in strong winds.  Method of attachment and the type of weather block vary in price and performance.  The original method was to completely encase the voids at hip and ridge and sealing the cap pieces with mortar.  When mortar is applied today, typically the voids are stuffed with newspaper and a thin later of mortar is applied to the outside.  This does not last.  The mortar cracks and falls apart.

Roof Flashing Tape (weather block) sometimes called Flash Band is an aluminum foil with a butyl rubber adhesive.  It is conformable, durable, and an excellent moisture barrier suitable for outdoor UV exposure and creates a water-tight seal.  It also comes without the foil layer which is not as durable.  It has a limited 12 year warranty.

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Preformed Weather Block is made from resistant and weatherproof polymers.  It is flexible, preformed, flashing material which follows the contour of the roofing tiles.  It has a limited lifetime warranty.

 Verde Warranty Downloadable PDF: VerdeWeatherblock

Adhesive Mortar resists expansion and contraction, stays flexible, doesn’t crack or loosen, and doesn’t  fall out according to the manufacturer Flexim.  The material was developed in the Netherlands and was introduced to the European market in 1984 and received the Innovation Award in 1990.  It has 10 year limited warranty.


FleximRoofmortar Downloadable PDF Files: FleximRoofmortar
  • Insulation
  • New Skylight
  • Gutters

Insulation


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Price
Current Code
Requirement
Energy Star
Recommendations

Insulation

It is customary to re-insulate your attic during the roof process. Doing so will save a minimum of 20% off of your cooling and heating bills and make it more comfortable. Homes built before 2007 were required to only install R-19. The new code is R-30, though they are leaning to changing this to R-34. Typical investment payback is less than 3 years. Insulated areas do not include non-conditioned spaces.

Conductive Heat: The current minimum standard for our area for attic insulation is R-30, 7 ½”. Some homes have no insulation, which would require the entire R-30 to meet the minimum standard. If your attic insulation is 3 ½”, you have R-12 and would need to add R-19 to meet the minimum requirement. If you have 5 ½” of attic insulation, you have R-19 and need to add R-12 to meet the minimum requirement.

In the winter, if the outside temperature reaches 30 degrees, and you are trying to keep your home at 70 degrees, the temperature difference is 40 degrees (70 – 30), you would need R-19 at a minimum. In the summer, your attic can reach a temperature of 140 degrees. If you are trying to keep the home at 70 degrees, that is a difference of 70 degrees (140 – 70) and you’d need a minimum of R-30 insulation.

Radiant Heat: If you do not have a radiant barrier, then the top 1 inch of your insulation can be 10 degrees – 20 degrees hotter than the air in your attic. The heat is absorbed by the insulation and eventually enters your home. If a radiant barrier is installed on the back of your rafters, 97% of the radiant heat reflects back out and never reaches your insulation.

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Walls/Floors: These areas, if not insulated, allow the transfer of heat and cold.

Insulation Check Sheet:

You might be surprised how many people don’t know they’re sending money through their roof.

A standard single family home going from an existing R-12 to R-30 will see a minimum reduction of 20% on their cooling and heating bill. If your power bill averages $100 a month, about half of that is for cooling and heating, typically. A 20% savings would equate to a $20 reduction on your bill each month, per $100 of every cost.

About 78% of homeowners have not added any insulation to their attic; in part because they believe their home already has enough.

However, 80% of homes built before 1980 are not insulated to correct standards. Even newer homes may not be as energy-efficient as you think. Current codes are only the minimum insulation requirements for new construction – not the amount recommended to optimize energy efficiency.

Overall, about 60 million homes built before 1980 are under-insulated, costing Americans $8.2 billion each year. Simply insulating existing homes to current standards would save 800 trillion BTUs (that’s 76 supertankers of oil) each year.

Higher Resale Value: An energy-efficient home appeals to buyer’s financial and environmental interests.

Research shows that 71% of homebuyers want a home that reduces their overall impact on the environment. And 96% of homebuyers consider energy efficiency when buying a new home.

A Positive Impact on the Environment: CertainTeed insulation products save many times the energy used to make it in the first year alone. And they continue to help conserve energy year after year without consuming any additional resources.

The products CertainTeed sells each year are responsible for the prevention of more than 1 billion tons of greenhouse gas emissions. This equals the emissions of 200 million passenger cars or the use of 2 billion barrels of oil.

Responsible Use of Resources: Many CertainTeed products are made with renewable resources, recycled materials or the byproducts of other production processes. CertainTeed Fiberglas insulation is made of plentiful sand and recycled glass.

Loose fill insulation, also called “blown-in” insulation, is made of virgin white fiber glass insulation. It is used in new construction and in existing homes, typically in hard-to-reach areas.

  • It will not settle or lose its energy-saving abilities over time.
  • It does not require the addition of fire-retardant chemicals that can promote corrosion of pipes or wires.
  • It will not rot or decay, support fungus or mold growth, or provide sustenance for insects or vermin.
  • CertainTeed Loose Fill Insulation Brochure

New Skylight


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Price
Energy Star
Tax Credit
Energy Savings
Enhanced Value

New Skylights

When quality skylights are installed correctly they will outlast the rest of your roof, save money on energy bills, prevent heat from entering, make the inside of your building more enjoyable and enhance value. Home and Gardens Magazine states that “adding a skylight is the single best return on investment in remodeling today”.

J.C. Barry Manufacturing/Skylights
24×24 Operable unit, clear double dome mill frame
24×24 Operable unit, white or obscure glass, bronze frame
24×48 bronze tint dome, bronze frame
24×48 Self Flashing unit, clear dome mill frame
24×48 White dome mill frame
Bronze frame dual pane Skylight
Divided ridge unit (unglazed)
Octagon unit

Gutters


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Price
Water Control
Maximum Protection
Enhanced Value
ZERO Maintenance Required

Gutters are usually replaced during the reroof process. Gutters help prevent foundation decay, flower bed damage and exterior equipment damage. Gutters are perfect for collecting rain water for lawn use, preventing waterfalls on walkways and redirecting rainwater away from the building.

Gutters

Gutters and downspouts are necessary to channel water away from the foundation of the building to prevent damage. Factors that must be considered in the design of the roof drainage system are:  the area to be drained, size of the gutters, downspouts and outlets, the slope of the roof, type of building, and its appearance.  The design capacity for the roof drainage system depends on the quantity of water to be handled.  The quantity of water in turn depends on the roof area, roof slope, and rainfall intensity.  Rainfall intensity is usually stated in inches per hour for a 5 minute duration based on U.S. Weather Bureau records.

We use pre-painted, steel or aluminum seamless gutters that are designed and assembled onsite to custom fit your roof. We also use paintable bonderized gutters and copper gutters for different styles and options.

Custom-built Metals, Award Metals, and Spectra Gutters and Accessories represent the finest rain removal system made. With a superior gutter design and decades of proven experience, they continue to set industry standards. They are a beautiful, durable solution, engineered to last and last on your home.

  • Seamless Design: No leaks: Our team brings our roll-forming machine to you. We create each gutter to the exact length.
  • Our gutters are installed behind the drip edge or wing to allow water to flow directly into the gutter and not behind it.
  • All components included, no hidden costs: We include all parts required to install a complete gutter system.
  • We use pre-mounted, hidden hangers to anchor our seamless gutters. These: Hold more weight; won’t back out; have a smooth finish; and a clean look.
  • All corners of your gutter are custom-made onsite or factory-mitered to fit perfectly.
  • We use downspouts to ensure that water is being channeled away from your home and to help prevent gutter clogging: 2” x 3”; We use a variety of gutter sizes and designs.
  • We use anti-corrosive screws, hangers, and gutters that will not rust.
  • All Aluminum or Steel: 16 colors available; Same Price
  • Ten year workmanship warranty

SEAMLESS RAIN GUTTER PROFILES

Below is a sample of Gutter Profiles that may be available in your area from contractors. Some gutter profiles are only available in certain regions, so please contact your local contractors for information.

Available Gutter Profiles

“K” or “O/G” Style Seamless Gutter in 5″ & 6″

  • Standard Material: Aluminum (.027), Copper (16 oz.), Steel (26 Ga.)
  • Finish: Dura Coat XT-10
  • Warranty: Lifetime Finish Warranty

Half Round Style Gutter in 5″ & 6″

  • Standard Material: Aluminum (.027), Copper (16 oz.), Steel (26 Ga.)
  • Finish: Dura Coat XT-10
  • Warranty: Lifetime Finish Warranty

Commercial Style Seamless Gutter in 6″

  • Standard Material: Aluminum (.027), Copper (16 oz.), Steel (26 Ga.)
  • Finish: Dura Coat XT-10
  • Warranty: Lifetime Finish Warranty

Super or Deep Fascia Style Seamless Gutter in 7 1/4″

  • Standard Material: Copper (16 oz.), Steel (26 Ga.)
  • Finish: Dura Coat XT-10
  • Warranty: Lifetime Finish Warranty
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Fascia Style Seamless Gutter in 5 1/2″

  • Standard Material: Aluminum (.027), Copper (16 oz.), Steel (26 Ga.)
  • Finish: Dura Coat XT-10
  • Warranty: Lifetime Finish Warranty
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https://www.custombiltmetals.com/_pdfs/color_charts/Rain_Gutter_Color_Chart.pdf

GUTTER – DOWNSPOUT – END CAPS – ELBOWS – ACCESSORIES

Fascia Gutter Plain Face
5-1/4″
or 7-1/4″
With or Without Wing

Galvanized or Bonderized

Copper
10′ only
Fascia Gutter Deco Face
5-1/4″
5 Rib or 7-1/4″ 7 Rib
Galvanized or Bonderized
Tile Gutter Plain Face
7-1/4″

Galvanized or Bonderized
Tile Gutter Deco Face
7-1/4″
Galvanized or Bonderized
Fascia Gutter Curved Face
5-1/4″
Standard
7-1/4″ Standard or Tile

Galvanized or Bonderized

Copper
10′ only
Half Round Double Bead Gutter

10′ lengths 4″,
5″, 6″

20′ lengths in 5″ or 6″
Galvanized, Bonderzied or Copper
Half Round Single Bead Gutter
4″, 5″ or 6″
in 10′

Galvanized, Bonderzied or Copper
Half Round Single Bead – 1″ Wing

4″,
5″, 6″

 

4″, 5″ in 10′ only
6″ in 10′ or 20′
Galvanized, Bonderzied or Copper
Style Gutter With No Wing
4″
Copper 10″ only
5″
Copper in 10′ or 20′

4″ NA in Bonderized

4″ NA in Bonderized

Galvanized, Bonderzied or Copper
K” Style Gutter with 1″ Wing
4″
or 6″ Copper 10″ only
5K or 6K
Copper in 10′ or 20′
Galvanized, Bonderzied or Copper

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